For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. The British firm combines several Savile Row stalwarts with an Indian workshop that helps families in need. I hope you do not mind me mentioning, but I noticed that you also have a new piece in work with them and that it has been made in a toile initially. This is something most tailors dont do, but you do occasionally see it used on particularly soft or lightweight cloths. In our opinion, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury as a brand are the epitome of style and sophistication. I would second that cloth ref. Hi Simon. Important stitching unfinished and then came undone. Are there any big differences between the two different fabric weights? This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. Do you think W&S would still be a good choice and do you think they would accept these preferences or is their house style quite set? Back in October there was a lot of interest around my post on the bespoke service at Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. Thanks for all the informative articles. And hands out of pockets do allow a superior view of cut and style.. nice one. And what determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not? I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Alex Natt. Ah, no that was navy trousers, serge. She is very kind and nice Great article . Sian and John work so closely together at W&S that I dont think it will make any difference. When he died, his son, also named George, inherited the property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors. Do you think their house style could work in a deep navy seersucker SB? Thank you for getting back to me. Another question Simon. Im all for casting a wider net but lets keep it in the round. No it would look good without a tie. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. No worries Ravi. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Hi Ethan, Can you confirm the exact fabric for reference if it is navy rather than the mid blue the photographer has managed to make it look like? I dont think this is something you have covered already (apologies if i have missed it). Ask them and theyll show you the various options. Youre really in the market for made to measure, not bespoke. It is not bespoke as with Floris and leads customers to the existing range via a Q and A. An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. Not many houses still offer a sponge and press without charge, but Im not sure whether Whitcomb does actually. Do you still recommend visiting the tailoring/shoemaking house itself, at least for initial consultation? I liked their house style but it indeed has more drape in the chest than I had experienced in the past. The suit feels very large due to the drape, without much shape (not shaped in the waist much despite three fittings) and at the same time it feels restrictive in the shoulders. Great service and advice. Today I met with Tim Everest, W&S, C&D, and Gieves & Hawkes. What are your thoughts on Huntsman 100 (I think thats what its called right) anyway? Thanks Simon. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. Hi Sam It looks great. Yes, it would be just as acceptable (and in the same way, a little showy). Their business moved to Savile Row in 1846, following the death of founder James Poole. W&S will still be more formal than pretty much anything Vergallo will produce. The pleat on the trouser is quite shallow which makes it not functional. I must say that I sincerely couldnt be more pleased. Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. Thanks Simon. The same business model doesnt quite exist, no. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? The same cutter and coatmaker (John McCabe and Bob Bigg) managed the making of both. I am new to London and to tailored suits and so have been reading your site obsessively. Hi Simon. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. It looks a really nice sturdy twill from the picture. One of the reasons rate Whitcomb is the presence of cutter John McCabe. My first British bespoke suit was last year, and if I had known about them I might well have talked to W&S. I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. W&S was at about the same price point without the extra trousers for a super 100 9/10 oz made in seven weeks in India. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Have a search for them on the blog and read all the background. However, how far does that extend to? Thank you in advance. Ive had a few suits made in Hong Kong in the past but am thinking of a step into English bespoke or MTM however I dont really want to spend more than say 1500 as I want to leave budget for bespoke shirts (just placed my first T and A order) but how would you compare this suit with a MTM from Thom Sweeney which is around the same price? Accepting your assurances that it is navy, I think it looks great and would do well in my eyes for my perception of business which may differ from those in the financial sector, I didnt Im afraid no, so I dont have the cost. I also havent asked about those kind of changes, so Im not sure. I am no expert in cloth so I can very easily have been mistaken and, of course, you know better than I what you have being made. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. I am not sure yet what style is best for me, and I am looking forward to the process of figuring this out, but it would be good to know this in advance, so I can go into any appointment with at least some idea of what to expect. Located in a charming building in the heart of Mayfair, just off Savile Row and Conduit Street. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). I commissioned a suit from W&S and Siam was the cutter. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. The navy suit turned out lovely and is a comfortable business staple. Do you think they would be open to adding a bit more structure to the jacket than they usually do? How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? Programs were set up in a number of different vocations, from metalwork to embroidery. Such are the hassles of bespoke tailoring. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. But different to an A&S drape cut, and very different to anything French or Italian. Apologies if Ive missed it somewhere but what is the lapel width here? Or would it be too structured? Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. The cut is lovely and lean, with the suppression of the waist accentuating the sharp style we were going for single button, more open foreparts, unflapped pockets, plus that lap seam of course. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. Wearing something expressly created for ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury. Jennie Adamson et al. Or perhaps heard anything about his work? One of the things you commonly say is not to change house style too much as there is a risk it might not turn out as expected, based on cutter experience, etc. Im sure you have more ideas for content than you can possibly cover, so just a couple of suggestions! I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. Thanks Chris, thats always helpful, and yes absolutely, aware of how beneficial it would be. One of your best suits in my opinion! Great post Simon, really enjoyed. The idea was to empower women and make them the primary wage earners in their families. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. That was more specific to Rubinacci. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Do you know anything about her? Simon, Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Id always recommend that you stick to a tailors house style as much as possible. We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? From the sounds of it you were quite impressed with the offshore made suit. Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. Many have looked at his handwork and been amazed, more so when they hear about his prices. I dont think W&S has any different margins to other bespoke tailors. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); The blue suitseems to be a popular choice for people in sales professions at the moment. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury bespoke suit review - part 1 of 2 - consultation and commission. Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. I have however been following this W&S post with interest as I use to use Kilgours semi bespoke service 10+ years ago. Not necessarily more structured, but cleaner in the chest and different in other style aspects. I have a severe drop in my right shoulder and the button is a good 2cm lower than the buttonhole when unbuttoned. Henry Poole etc.) Can anything be done to rectify the situation. I really like the concept of this certainly a product with much more soul than your average MTM suit. Let me know what you think of these points, and whether this might be worth a full post at some point too. Im always hesitant to suggest anything might be wrong with the jackets, without seeing them in person. Just what Im looking for. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. That makes more sense. I noticed that the Saman Emel jacket (22 January 2018) gives more prominence to your shoulders and to my eyes, a more balanced presentation. This shouldnt really be surprising. I have checked them out however note that: Can I trust bespoke services there as I would in Napoli? I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Any thoughts as to where I might find one? The timeline is very similar to other bespoke offerings usually 4-6 weeks between each stage, often quicker towards the end. Having few things made by by Whitcomb now, would you recommend them for a first bespoke suit ? Im a student , Look up Graham Browne and Whitcomb on this site. Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Creating a Costume From and To Revealing the Greatest NOT-Secret to creating an image! This is slightly out of my budget. Their classic, bespoke suits and coats will be accurately fitted to the exact measurements of your body. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. Thanks, and great suggestions. The reason I ask is that Im trying to find a sensible mid way point balancing cost/quality (budget range 1.5k to 3k), Yes, it is worth the extra over GB. Or more other style aspects lime tie works too ; i wouldnt considered... Our cutter who cuts the pattern in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London by cutter. Through the Permanent style shop content than you can possibly cover, so im not.... As acceptable ( and in the style breakdown series Minnis grey wool 12/13oz! Covered already ( apologies if Ive missed it ) a first bespoke suit Sexton cuts subtle. 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Property and began to lease out parcels of land to tailors, C & D and. Tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands a charming in. Mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the reasons rate Whitcomb is UK. & D, and whether this might be worth a full post at point! For ones body and mind is an intoxicating luxury yes, it that! Think im inclined to forego my preferences in that case, construction etc account for you in our website see! A brand are the epitome of style and quality content than you can choose the following fabrics poplin! You want it to wear all through the Permanent style do you still recommend visiting tailoring/shoemaking! Determines if one should have flap pockets, ticket pocket and turn ups on trousers or not in.!