Same for the earthy-sweet beets, which also get a stab of heat from jalapeos. No restaurant can be all things to all diners, but I like how this one goes right for the hugs. Novak Djokovics winning streak on the tennis court. I still stand behind stalwarts Bucks Fishing & Camping in Washington and Charleston in Baltimore, which you can find in my Hall of Fame. Bajaj wanted to drop the restaurants time-consuming thalis; budget-minded patrons will be happy to see that the fetching little feasts, presented on fancy platters and priced for $30 or less, have, unlike dark wood or depictions of the Raj, stuck around. Some of the best gored gored in the area is found here; strips of filet mignon, so soft you barely need to chew, arrive in a spicy, brick-colored cloak of awaze, Ethiopias answer to hot sauce. Im talking banquettes the shade of marinara sauce, Sinatra on the soundtrack, chianti in straw-swaddled bottles and herby hot garlic bread presented with a four-cheese dunk. Indoor seating only. Were reintroducing hospitality, says the restaurateur. Tom Sietsema spotlights 48 DC-area restaurants, including his 10 favorites. Indoor seating only. No website. Ingredients makes luscious use of a bumper crop of tomatillos from the chefs garden, the source of a sauce for a soothing, taleggio-stuffed arepa. The combination of nine beans mung, kidney, soy and fava, among others warmed with bay leaf, cloves and chiles is fuel you wont forget. Restaurants of 2017. Lunch Tuesday through Friday, dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The truth is, there are lots to like here: housemade sodas that change with the season (fall finds pumpkin pie and Concord grape), a small dining room decorated with old cooking utensils and Mason jars-turned-lights, and warmth beyond that of the oven. Diners are sent into the night with treats for tomorrow granola, zucchini bread that in some cases never make it home. Badiee, 33, previously cooked at Gravitas, Cranes and Fiola three different but impressive Washington, D.C., restaurants and in New York at such notable brands as Eleven Madison Park. Dinner Tuesday through Saturday. Im most drawn to fish here, although the plump pork chop, brined in baking spices, is mighty impressive. Makeda, its name a reference to the biblical Queen of Sheba, is full of niceties. From bars and taco joints to four star local legends, the FALL DINING GUIDE has a dinner for everyone. I dont want to miss a dish in the lot. Open for indoor and outdoor dining. While the siblings have in common hospitality and great things in glasses, Revelers Hour is the more relaxed of the two, a model pasta and wine bar in a room thats dark as a movie theater but illuminated with candles and surrounded by wine. Instagram obsessives like me know what to expect . Soups, including a subtle beef broth, come with a choice of thin or wide noodles; the latter, made with the wheat common in northern China, are rolled out in-house. The Tombs Tonari Tortino Zenola 2022 Fall Dining Guide Diners at Dylan's Oyster Cellar in Baltimore. A ground-floor restroom is ADA-compliant. Not to worry. Red Hen rocks. A server might suggest with your meal a little thimble of what looks like liquid fire: pili pili, a habanero-stoked condiment and an exception to Kenyas relatively tame flavor profile. That hasnt stopped staff from ferrying food to customers on the second-floor dining room or chef Jocelyn Law-Yone, 68, from storytelling. Want to light up your dining room table? Desserts are outsized. If the service is a touch more hesitant these days, well, that applies to a lot of restaurants now. Diners who forget to specify get the dish, often eaten rare, cooked medium. No takeout or delivery. The executive chef at Anju in Washington, whos spent half his 32 years in the industry, is no Ted Lasso. This Fauquier County gem anticipates whims and delivers the goods. Theres a reason Henrys, which also has a catering arm and a second, lesser branch in Oxon Hill sells about 100,000 sweet potato pies a year. Linda Lomelino, the stylish blogger at the helm of Call Me Cupcake!, is a kitchen wizard who crafts ice cream so beautiful and delicious you can almost taste it melting on your tongue as you read. Indoor and private outdoor seating. From the brick oven come thin, crisp pies, including the Spotted Pig, decked out with wild boar meatballs, sopressata, a pleasantly sweet tomato sauce, fresh basil and multiple cheeses. Four-course menu $95 per person; a la carte bar menu $28-$33. Craft features halibut poached in olive oil and decked out with a panko crust. Which it is, despite some trimming of the drinks and wine lists and a format switch. A pupusa bursting with oxtail and octopus gives new meaning to surf and turf, and the dish inspired by a dishwasher who makes staff meals is better for a sauce of black beans made darker and more maritime with squid ink. No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restrooms. Chef Matt Hill and his business partner, Todd Salvadore, have worked at some of the areas best restaurants, and theyve incorporated best practices into everything they do at Ruthies, a tribute to the chefs late North Carolina grandmother. Entrees with mass appeal (smoked meat, grilled fish and vegetables) that average $20, sides included? Those and other dishes were served as part of a tasting menu, introduced during the pandemic, that launched with a trio of snacks, one of them catfish dip garnished with pickled red onions and scooped up with what tasted like a zestier version of Fritos. A: Tom Sietsema My current favorite in Laurel is Curry Leaf, a tidy and friendly Indian outpost that offers a terrific buffet for $10.99 weekdays. Tasting menu $75 Tuesday through Thursday, $85 Friday and Saturday. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Best Restaurants 2021: Sfoglina In Arlington, find one of the best slices of cake you've ever eaten. No barriers to access, but the restroom is snug. His pt is a world-class organ recital, his gnocchi the softest of pillows. community, tradition, ingredients, shopping, variety, and service. On the upside, that just gives me more excuses to return. Ramp leads to bar entrance and an ADA-compliant restroom. Ahn thinks of the dish as an enhanced juk, or Korean porridge. One of the best vegan memories in recent months is the chefs Blue Ridge bowl with local vegetables and basmati rice, over which a server pours an amber liquid that tastes like the distillation of a garden with a whisper of ginger. Seemingly a bushel of arugula shows up with a hailstorm of pistachios, goat cheese crumbles and juicy blackberries. Theres no more fetching kitchen in town than the open one at Albi Arabic for my heart surrounded by a mural of characters holding hands. Indoor and outdoor seating. New Orleans is summoned in the long-grain Louisiana rice that shores up the fish amandine and in the crackle from the Leidenheimer bread thats shipped in for the beefy po boy. Times up. Vegetarians fly first-class here; kudos to the towering hearts of palm crab cake. Meanwhile, Mother Nature has a rival in the pastry team, whose hand-painted peach involves a sumptuous mousse. The smooth filling revels in nutmeg, ginger, vanilla and orange, albeit in amounts that let the sweet potato shine. Easy parking? In a small strip mall, the facade is nothing to look at. Because readers asked, the following reviews offer information on vaccine mandates and accessibility. Indoor seating only. The fish slick with olive oil, fragrant with cardamom and fiery with mitmita does what the chef, Senait Mimi Tedla, intends: It makes you feel good, she says of her enlightened version of the Ethiopian classic, whose flames typically come from spiced butter. The pandemic prompted this Italian charmer to take reservations for the first time in 31 years. In true izakaya fashion, the menu, illustrated with Sekis doodles, leans to snack-size plates meant to be washed back with drinks. The issue? An outdoor fountain splashes in a back garden. On my last visit, a young woman spent a course or two rearranging drinks and food for some close-ups. 202-796-0011. Fans can rest assured that the original details remain in place and that the new hosts have no plans on making any changes, says Jake Addeo, who last cooked in Washington at the Occidental and Bibiana. My father was a perfectionist, says Jermaine Smith, who co-owns the operation with his sister, Henrietta Smith-Davis. Make that whole branzino cooked over a wood grill or pasta draped with the chefs wonderful white Bolognese, what she calls a warm blanket of veal and beef cooked in chicken stock and milk and finished with sage and butter. Everything coming out of the kitchen is something to rave about. Ribbon-shaped mafalda pasta shows off leeks, thyme and a handful of wild mushrooms, while a mighty pork chop Milanese is accompanied by a little pitcher of mustard sauce to cut the richness. photo by: deb lindsey Then he brought aboard Matt Adler, a veteran of Osteria Morini who told him he knew exactly the place Babin wanted: a comforting restaurant like the one Adlers father ran in Upstate New York. And I cant imagine a Nepalese meal without momos. The fetching chowda packs in fistfuls of clams whose shells collect smoked bacon, grilled sweet corn, diced potato, crisp scallions and hot cream. Same for dominoes of roseate local beef accessorized with grilled broccoli, burned eggplant and a dollop of ketchup, brilliant with red pepper. The kitchen treats people who dont eat meat like VIPs. For his 14th Fall Dining Guide, Tom Sietsema selects his 40 favorite Pastas $18-$26, entrees $16-$87 (prime cut rib-eye for two). A server delights in explaining how the block of white cornmeal mash absorbs whatever it touches and can be used to scoop up other bits of food. Lunch weekdays, brunch weekends, dinner Monday through Saturday. Confused about tipping these days? Takeout, no delivery. November 2, 2021 / northern virginia magazine. Instant access to millions of audiobooks, ebooks, comics, and more. As for dessert, the eye-opener of the bunch is the pineapple boat, swollen with a rum syrup and bright with mint and lime. 136 Paramount Park Dr., Gaithersburg, Md. A host of memorable restaurants has rolled out during the pandemic. No utensils necessary, chowhounds know; the extra scrolls of spongy injera in your order are all the scoops you need. Harding insisted we stay for dessert. Entrees $19-$45; prix fixe $79, wine pairing $49. My vote goes to Daru, whose black-and-glass door commands attention with concentric white rings inspired by Himalayan mandalas and a welcome written in Sanskrit: The guest is god. Or duck confit, staged with tender little scallion pancakes and miso-poached pear. Tom Sietsema has been The Washington Post's food critic since 2000. Go now, and you build your own adventure by ordering two dishes from a roster of some of the most novel food around. Every neighborhood should have an Elle. SE. Dinner daily, brunch weekends. This years survey of my favorite restaurants, my 22nd annual fall dining guide, is a reflection of how the pandemic has changed me, too. 703-567-6615 cafecollineva.com Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday Dinner entrees $16 to $37 Pickup via website or phone; no delivery. The entree is textbook perfect, down to a hedge of mustard-sharpened salad greens. No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restroom. On the other hand, he feels hes bonded more with his colleagues since the pandemic set ego and hubris aside. Echoing others in the industry, Barreto says, We give so much to guests. Notice a pattern? (Tom Sietsema) *No. No takeout or delivery. Chef Yuan Tang and his wife and co-owner Carey say theyre too busy with guests in the dining room to juggle the former and that wine pairings involve too many interactions ill-advised in pandemic times. Airbnb could be forgiven for recruiting the all-day, modern American restaurant on Capitol Hill. Proof of vaccination required for indoor dining. Dinner Wednesday through Sunday. Ditto. I think Washington remains one of the best places to dine in America. Ultimately, this is a record of why I think Washington remains one of the best places to dine in America. Knowing that Tyler and her colleagues, chef Jon Sybert and wine maven Bill Jensen, are also behind the nearby Tail Up Goat is reason enough to pay respects. From the bar flow some of the most beautiful and delicious drinks around. [For exceptional Korean food, book a table at Anju]. Shelves carve the room, whose rear mirrors make it look bigger, into discreet nooks; the cookbooks on display include those from some of the countrys foremost restaurants and chefs. Portioned as if leftovers were expected, the entrees come with a choice of two sides, all of which would look at home at a church social. Chocolate chess pie is a slice of heaven made possible with a coffee- and orange-flavored cream and candied ginger. is a cross between Neapolitan and New York-style pizza based on a dough thats fermented at least a day, cooked in an oak-stoked oven and simply dressed with toppings that show thought. Wheelchair users should call ahead so a ramp can be set up at the door and seating at the kitchen counter can be arranged; ADA-compliant restroom. $10.99. The new list also addresses the question the owner routinely hears Whats your favorite dish? with half a dozen favorites from over the decades. Takeout and delivery. Frederik De Pue has moved the indoors outside at his destination restaurant in Annapolis, where a 30-seat patio dressed with carpets, curtains even a temporary roof makes for a considered and cozy backdrop for his creative tasting menu. The staffs T-shirts say it best: Get to the Point.. Theyre labeled James (as in Beard) and Julia (as in Child). The candles on the tables are oyster shells filled with wax. (Scott Suchman for The Washington Post) RIGHT: Rigatoni with sausage at the Red Hen in Washington. Linns sly sense of humor resurfaces in the terrific Porky Marge, a margherita pizza punctuated with crisp nubbins of bacon and showered with Romano cheese. Is there a dish Ruta doesnt excel at? In contrast, Obelisk feels like a poetry reading graced with sublime food. Regulars know it as much for its ambitious social mission as its tea leaf salad and catfish mohinga. collection is an invaluable, evocative guide to the ever-changing, slowly vanishing landscape of the city's great dining scene. 1100 15th St. NW. Reliability is a hallmark of the restaurants, where the shredded pork and mustard green soup is as delicious and restorative as I remember it back when Facebook was in its infancy, and the shaved dry bean curd, pungent with cilantro and crunchy with peanuts, remains a prized snack. A visit to this cozy Belgian outpost in the Palisades proves a welcome exception. Indoor and outdoor seating. No bottle on the standing list is more than $43. Truth in advertising. Wheelchair users can eat on the patio or in the downstairs dining room, which is reached via an elevator in the lobby of the neighboring building; ADA-compliant restrooms. Every dish tastes best in class, be it light arancini that any Italian chef would be proud to serve or a pork chop from Autumn Olive Farms that leaves the wood grill tender and juicy (and eats like a prized steak). Lunch and dinner daily. Happily, the four-course tasting menu that diners can design for themselves remains a staple of one of the citys most creative restaurants. served its first pie and makes an ace ambassador, asking strangers where theyre from and letting them try as many of the beers on tap as they want. Alone, the stewlike wild boar, cooked with onions and tomatoes, hums with mustard powder, chili powder, lemon juice and sage. Its missing in a lot of places these days, but Muchas Gracias is a poster child for inattention. Proof of vaccination or negative test required for indoor dining. Any concerns I had about a successor were erased by a July dinner consisting of nine small courses that seemed to channel much of the new chefs rsum. My solution: takeout or delivery, which never fails to erase a bad day, and not just because the spicy margaritas are top-shelf and true to their word. 535 posts. Indoor and outdoor seating. Wheelchair users can access the restaurant and the restrooms via a ramp and an entrance in the back of the building. Delicious now hop on your Peloton. India has changed, says Bajaj. Imagine smoky green beans and shishito peppers tossed with buttermilk, chile paste, sesame oil, garlic a rousing kitchen sink of recruits. (Jahi Chikwendiu/The Washington Post) By Tom Sietsema Oct. 5 at 10:00 a.m. 231 As the. Light pours through the windows, which take in a spacious patio outside. Travel Holiday GET BOOK Download Travel Holiday Book in PDF, Epub and Kindle Brandwein can also be dramatic, evinced by poached sablefish paired with black chickpeas, a monochromatic moment worthy of a frame. Other places might write happy anniversary on a plate in chocolate. A ramp leads to the entrance, where a wheelchair user might need help with double doors; ADA-compliant restrooms. Service. Takeout and delivery. The beautiful salads capture whatever season were in corn, cucumber and nectarine in August and side dishes such as tomato-sauced Romano beans scattered with feta cheese are snapshots of the chefs childhood, both at home and on visits to Greece. Indoor and outdoor seating. Brunch and dinner daily. Now and then, the chef offers a taste of the food his mother made back in his native Sicily. The chef is a discerning shopper. Indoor and outdoor seating for dinner; indoor dining not available for breakfast or lunch. Jeremiah Langhorne says hes serving half as many customers as he did pre-pandemic and his is a better restaurant for it. The chef not only wants us to eat well, he encourages us to think about our impact on the Earth one reason he named his restaurant after oyster mushrooms and oysters from the water, both eco-friendly and sustainable. Hate the name. Food lovers will appreciate the restroom doors. Reservations, required for now, are for 90 minutes. Dinner Wednesday through Saturday. These days, customers can still count on Smiths high standards in every order of carryout. Remember Blend 111? Eaten throughout Kenya, it showcases bites of chargrilled beef or goat that have been marinated in a spice blend whose list of ingredients is as long as the Nile. Open for indoor and outdoor dining and takeout. A Caesar assembled with pea shoots, charred snap peas and breadcrumbs instead of croutons is unconventional but so good, even purists polish it off. Takeout for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. His response to the upheaval: radical self-care, meaning more time with friends and outside pursuits and taking stock of the whole person, mental health included, in a business known for its long hours and uncomfortable working conditions. . I want it to feel like someones home, says owner Hollis Wells Silverman. Because of a step at the entrance, wheelchair users should enter via door to the left of the storefront; ADA-compliant restroom. Suffice it to say, the deftly charred fish and luxurious potatoes would make their masters proud.). This is the Inn, after all. Grilled rockfish set on a shimmering pool of sungold tomato sauce and circled with brioche croutons and herbs arranged as if with tweezers was beautiful and luscious. 2021 Fall Dining Guide | Tom Sietsema | October 6, 2021 | Washington Post Marinated in garam masala and finished with a brown onion gravy, it's a high-rise of soft red meat paired with mashed potatoes made great and gold with turmeric and mustard seed. My only issue with Chennai Hoppers is a menu so long and varied that even after several takeout orders, I feel as if Ive only scratched the surface of the kitchens handiwork. Mixing trees and crops can help both farmers and the climate | Jonathan Lambert | July 14, 2021 | Science News Takeout, no delivery. A shortage of staff meant a delay in seating guests in the dining room, which partially opened recently. No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restroom. Concerned reservation holders reached out to me when they heard that the warmhearted owners behind the Rappahannock County dining destination, chef John and Diane MacPherson, sold it in August to another couple, chef Jake and Sara Addeo. Inside? Upgrade to special, and the kitfo comes with collard greens and housemade cottage cheese. The roomy, unisex restroom thoughtfully includes Braille type near the entry. One slice leads to another, and before you know it, you feel like youre the piggy which doesnt stop you from inhaling some butterscotch pudding before you waddle out. Annabelle brings modern American cuisine to Washington, DC complemented with classic wines and cocktails. No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restrooms. Heavy glass doors precede the foyer; ADA-compliant restrooms. Its more global. The redo reflects that, and extends to the menu, overseen for half the life of the restaurant by chef Nilesh Singhvi. No takeout or delivery. (Anticipate fingers stained red with paprika, chiles and cayenne, too.). Open wide for oxtail birria starring beef-fat tortillas and a steaming teacup of reduced braising juices, a dunk like no other. And yet, its always about the crust, says Linn. Your wish is their command. A recent visit found us in the middle of what felt like a nightclub loud music, busy bartenders but still serving food thats very much the personal expression of its muse. A riff on bibimbap, the colorful Korean rice dish, swaps out rice for elastic wheat noodles (jjolmyeon) imported from the restaurants namesake city in Korea, arranged with a rainbow of cucumbers, carrots and onions plus tender sea snails instead of the traditional beef. Lunch and dinner daily. Maple panna cotta with caramelized hazelnuts is the definition of sublime. Kudos to the restaurant for keeping most wine bottle prices below $30. Culinary heroes Nobuyuki Nobu Matsuhisa and Jol Robuchon are celebrated in a sublime dish pairing the Japanese chefs silken fish in miso with the late French chefs crazy-rich whipped potatoes. Made by hand, the pastas have included such glories as capunti strewn with poached tuna, tomatoes, fennel and pistachios. The food, drink and hospitality even early in its game win your fandom. Fortunately, theres plenty of flavor, too. Lunch and dinner daily. For openers, I'm spending more time. No delivery or takeout. Of course, it was made there. 202-751-3958. queensenglish.com. Welcome to Carusos Grocery, which takes its name from a store Babins long-ago Sicilian relatives operated in Baton Rouge and revels in old-fashioned details. Del Mar #1 in Tom Sietsema's Fall Dining Guide. Orders retrieved outside; no access to restaurant. . OUTDOOR DINING REOPENED RESTAURANTS FOR ALL BUT ADDED TO BARRIERS FOR DISABLED BRITTANY MAYES, MARIA DEL CARMEN AGUILAR VELEZJULY 13, 2021 WASHINGTON POST Details cloth napkins, Rancho Gordo beans, guacamole that relies on super-creamy Mexican avocados enhance the grazing. Were you to inspect his open kitchen, youd find vegetable scraps being saved for cocktails and lids instead of plastic wrap to cover food. Fall Dining Guide, Tom Sietsema selects his 40 favorite Washington D.C.-area restaurants, reflecting a much-changed dining scene with exciting new flavors. For oxtail birria starring beef-fat tortillas and a dollop of ketchup, brilliant with red.! To say, the Fall dining Guide diners at Dylan & # ;. Half a dozen favorites from over the decades amounts that let the sweet potato shine on! Its missing in a lot of restaurants now the deftly charred fish and vegetables ) that average 20! Deftly charred fish and luxurious potatoes would make their masters proud. ),... 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